I arrive in Quetzaltenango, or “Xela” (Shay-la) as its affectionately called, after a gut-churning ride through the scenic mountains from Lake Atilan. Xela, a cool mountain town just off the Gringo trail enough to feel authentic, is a breath of fresh air after the gypsy play land that was San Pedro de Atitlan. Most travelers who find themselves in Xela […]

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