The Joy and Glory of Mexican Food

May20

I was preparing myself to be surprised by the food of Mexico. I had a feeling the Americanized– crunchy tacos with ground hamburger, shredded yellow cheese, lettice, tomato, cheese sauce, sour cream, tortilla chips and jars of chunky red salsa, etc—had little to do with the real food from a country with a cultural tradition hundreds of years rich. My expectations were exceeded. So many things make Mexico a spectacular place to visit–with the food nearing the top of the list. It´s no surprise to me that Mexican Food was named by UNESCO as an ¨untangible cultural heritage of mankind¨ and a ¨human treasure.¨

Tacos
You havent had tacos until you´ve indulged in a Mexican local´s favorite street stand. I was blown away from my first taco fresh from a street vender´s hot stove. A hot, freshly made tortilla filled with tender meat–cooked in its own juices–garnished with fresh cilantro, onion, spicy guac and lime. The meat salty and savory–the lime juice offsetting the saltiness with a bit of acidity–the onions spicy, the tortillas soft and warm, and the cilantro fresh; simple perfection for 6 pesos each (50 cents). The longer I stayed in Mexico the more their availability and variety became evident–nearly every street, all hours of the day or night and in a plethora of flavors–al pastor, barbacoa (sheeps meat slow cooked or smoked in a pit), bistek (beef), cochinita (pit-cooked pork), carne asada (marinated strip steak), shrimp & fish, tinga (any variety of meat marinated in tomato and onion). The quality and taste of a taco stands tacos often evident by the quality of the sauces, salsas and condiments provided at the table.

In San Cristobal, my coworkers and I would frequently take guests to our favorite el pastor taco spot. Here, where there is always a crowd–tortillas are made fresh, and your chunks of marinated pork are cut from a schwarma-style split grill, where they are grilled beneath a chunk of dripping pinnapple, mere seconds before hitting your plate. I always ordered mine with melted cheese and a cup of horchata (rice milked sweatened and seasoned with cinnamon).

A few guys from Guadlajara took me to a rather hidden street stand in the city, where I was served easily some of the best and most unique tacos I have ever consumed. One was with shredded, marinated duck meat, on a lightly grilled wheat tortilla, with such an overwhelming plethora of toppings, sauces and salsas, I nearly fainted with joy–carmalized onions, guacamole, salsa verde, fresh cilantro, chimichurri, pickled onions, tangy tamarind sauce, spicy peanut salsa, and pico de gallo. The other taco–chunks of grilled rabbit meat. Both amazing–and as is often the case–were perfected with condiments.

While in Sayulita, on the Pacific coast, I nearly survived on fish tacos alone. During the week I was in the cute little fishing/surfing town, I made the rounds at numerous seafood and taco stands– tacos with shrimp, fried fish or grilled marlin; served with crispy slaw, pickled onions and hot sauce. There were days I ate fish tacos for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Love at first bite. Cochinita Tacos in Playa del Carmen.

Tacos of Chicken Tinga–one of favorite things ever: chicken cooked in a pressure cooker than simmer in a pan of onions and tomatos–so flavorful

Tacos al Pastor

Glorious grilled fish tacos

Tortas
Next came tortas–a kind of Mexican sandwich–made with a lightly grilled, crispy, fresh, french roll, often soaked first in the juices of its accompanying meat–which can be anything from pork to beef, chicken and fish (and all their body parts), to vegetarian options with eggs, cheese-stuffed chilis, or sauteed peppers and onion, garnished with avocado, tomato, lettice or cabbage, and my personal favorite–pickled jalepeños. Typically priced between 15 and 25 pesos ($1.25-2.05). Always fast, cheap, delicious–and again found frequently.

In Valladolid I ate a crispy torta filled with impossibly tender lechon (suckling pig), garnished with cilantro and pickled onions. In Guanajuato I ate a glorious breakfast torta with a soft bun, eggs and chilli relleno (cheese stuffed chili, lightly battered and fried), made perfect with avocado and jalepenos. In Guadalaja, I enjoyed the regional specialty–tortas ahogados- wth tender, fatty pork, soaked in a tomato-chili sauce. Each one, inspiring and delicious.

Guadalajara´s tortas ahogados–or ¨drowned tortas¨ –a crispy french roll filled with pork, and pickled onions, drowning in a warm tomato-chili sauce

Quesadillas, Huaraches, Gorditas &
For whatever reason, quasadillas never appealed to me…until Mexico. Though I´m not sure why–what´s not to like about a fresh handmade tortilla filled with ooey-gooey, melted Oaxaca cheese, veggies such as sauteed mushrooms and onions, flor de calabaza, sauteed peppers and/or any variety of meat, grilled to perfection. While in Mexico City, I made one quesadilla stand near my Metro station into a daily stop. I could have a healthy, hot and satisfying lunch of handmade tortillas made from blue corn and stuffed with cheese, mushrooms, spinach, and nopales (boiled cactus leaves–a vegetable resembling slimy green beans with a mild, slightly tangy flavor), for US$1.25. Add a strawberry, guava, banana licuado (fruit mixed with milk or fresh squeezed orange juice) for another dollar, and I was good to go.

I will undoubtably be making them a staple in my diet when I return home.

Some tasty street food in Valladolid–sopes and salbutes

Honestly cannot remember the name of this masterpiece, however I remember how amazing the combination of ground pork, stringy cheese, cilantro and salsa verde tasted. Similar to a tlayuda of Oaxaca, but I´ve only ever spotted them in Puebla.

Enchiladas
The first enchiladas I ate in Mexico were made by Sara, a coworker at the hostel I worked at in Chiapas. She made me them, on request, for my last dinner before leaving. She filled lightly heated flour tortillas with perfectly, pressure-cooked chicken, then soaked them in a salsa made from tomatillos, onions and garlic, and garnished with cream, avocado and shredded lettice. My other work buddy made tasty guava mojitos to wash them down. Amazing food and even better company made this a perfect meal, and my favorite enchiladas ever.

Some of my favorites include–the mole negro enchiladas of Puebla; enchilades verde at a restuarant specializing in enchiladas on Cinco de Mayo: and mole roja at a hole in the wall spot in Mexico City. I´ll definitely be making them myself one of these days.

Enchilades verde and guava mojitos

Enchilades in mole negro

Soups
Soup is a surprisingly popular Mexican meal—hearty, with meat and/or veggies. My particular favorite Mexican soup, Pozole–common in District federal, and Jalisco–is a simple blend of shredded chicken or pork, and hominy (a weird kind of treated corn), in a basic broth, garnished with chili, oregano, lettice, and sometimes radishes and crushed tortillas or tostadas. Comforting, healthy and filling.

One hungover Sunday, my lovely coworker Sara made her family version of tortilla soup–a spicy blend of shredded chicken, tomatos, chipoltle, onions: with avocado, cilantro, lime and crushed tortilla chips as the all-important garnishes. The kind of meal that´ll warm you to the core.

Other common soups include in them a variety of veggies and meat–still on the bone. While in Guadalajara I tried Birria–a savory, brothy stew made from chilis and spices, often used in conjunction (or for dipping) with tacos made with mutton.

Sara´s yummy homemade spicy, chicken soup

Mole
This one got its own blog post. See here.

Fruits and Fresh Juices

I´ll be a sad puppy when the day comes when I can´t walk out my front door and buy freshly sliced mangos, strawberries or melon; or fresh squeezed orange juice for around a dollar; or a massive variety of fresh fruit from the markets. I´m not sure if Latin Americans know how lucky they are to have widespread, inexpensive access to such delisiously ripe fruits. I´ve certainly been eating my fill. The typical Mexican will top their fruit (and pretty much anything else) with chili powder or chamoy–a strange paste made from pickled fruit. I never quite caught on to this. You can head to nearly any market and find a stand specializing in smoothies, fruit salads and fresh juices.

Desserts
My first night in Mexico, I decided to eat for dinner the first thing I found from a random street stand for dinner. Lucky for me it was a marquesita stand. Marquesitas can best be described as a crunchy crepe–filled with any number of yummy stuff from from my favorite–Nutella–to fruit, cajeta (caramel made from goats milk), dulce de leche, and often garnished with shredded Edam cheese (I opt out of this bit). These stands are most often found in the Yucatan and during celebrations. I love the mixture of crunchy thin cookie filled with melted Nutella and banana chunks.

As an ice cream lover, upon entering Mexico, I realized quickly that I would need to control my habit in order to prevent major weight gain. More frequent than Starbucks in America–the chain Michoacana, takes every chance to tempt me with their paletas–essentially what Americans would call a large popsickle or ice cream bar–in a huge variety of flavors: fruity, creamy, coffee, chocolate, nutty. They are an addicting dessert for just 10 or 15 pesos (83 cents to $1.24). There were weeks where I´d get one a day. Luckily they are a controlled portion and many kinds are made with just fruit, water and sugar.

In most parts of Mexico, you can find men pulling along a cart of homemade ice cream or nieve–sorbet. This treat is often even cheaper than paletas and just as tasty. My most memorable ice cream in Mexico was a homemade coconut ice cream, bought after a long day at the beach–thick, creamy, cocounutty. Quite possibly the best ice cream I´ve ever had.

Marquesita with nutella

Lady selling ice cream in the streets of Guanajuato

Chocolate flan in Oaxaca

Holy Mole

Apr27

At first glance mole has got to be one of the least asthetically appealing of Mexican foods. To an innocent bystander, Mole appears to be merely a chicken leg drowning in a pool of soupy brown liquid. However after that first bite, mole turns into something magical. And with each glorious bite thereafter it`s easy to see why Mexican abuelas and madres have been making the tedious and labor intensive sauce for generations.

Ingredients such as black pepper, cumin, cloves, anise, tomatoes, tomatillos, garlic, sesame seeds, chipotle, dried fruit, and chocolate among others make up the rich and complex flavors in the rainbow of moles. And with dozens of different types of mole to try, you would live in Mexico for years before tasting them all. I, naturally was excited to try my share when entering Oaxaca and Puebla, perhaps two of the most mole obsessed cities in all of Mexico–this excitement amplified by the fact that I had never tried.

My first taste
I wander around Oaxaca`s impressive food market for a good hour, debating whether I`ve finally try Mole or whether to let the alleyway of intensely delicious smelling carne asada tempt me. I finally end up settling on the comedor of a motherly woman with sparkly eye makeup and a floral apron–her preteen daughter alongside her, helping prep. I order mole negro–perhaps the most commonly found type of mole in Oaxaca. Two minutes later in front of me big Mama places a plate of the above-mentioned chicken thigh drowning in a pool of brown liquid, a side of fiesta rice, and the standard basket of fresh corn tortillas. I tear off a piece of chicken and dunk it in the thick brown sauce. At first taste I`m delighted by the creamy warmth of the sauce and the complexity of it`s flavor–hints of rich Oaxacan chocolate, mildly spicy chili peppers, onions, garlic and something I can`t quite put my finger on. This shouldnt surprise me as Mole negro is one of the most complex and difficult to make types of mole. I smother the rice in the rich sauce, and lick the chicken bones clean before using my tortilla to clean my plate. It`s a deeply satisfying meal.

My first taste of mole, food market in Oaxaca

Next comes Puebla
I`m barely in the stunningly beautiful streets of Puebla five minutes before a young local man strikes up conversation with me. I tell him I`m looking for a place for dinner, preferably one serving Poblano (ie Puebla) specialties. He insists on taking me to a favorite Poblano restaurant where I am able to try enchiladas mole in the company of a person who knows the city well. I tell him how I love mole and want to try as many variations as I can before I leave Mexico. He has a word with the waiter, who quickly heads into the kitchen only to come out a few seconds later with two bowls of warm sauce–one red, the other green. He places a basket of fresh bread and tortillas chips for tasting. I`m blown away by mole verde–the silky and subtle flavor of pumpkin seeds, green tomatos, pistacios, garlic, cilantro join in harmony to make the creamy, nutty, earthy and intensely comforting sauce. I use the bread to sop up every last drop. I can`t imagine how mole can get any better than this.

Next comes red–and though not nearly as amazing as green–is delicous and interesting in it`s own respect, with a strong tomato base complimented by hints of garlic, ancho chilis, chocolate, cinnamon and cloves. Warm, sweet and spicy. Mole rojo garners a more familar flavor–like the more intelligent version of a red enchilada sauce I had tried before.

The meal is made even more satisfying when my dining partner insists on paying for the rather pricy meal.

An experience in fine dining–Enchiladas Mole, in Puebla. I failed to capture the red and green moles.

Yet another incredible Mole
On my final morning in Puebla I head off with one goal in mind–to find a lunch of mole poblano. I decide on a small hole-in-the-wall place with a title containing the word Abuela (grandma), which is always a good sign for an excellent meal. Even better–mole poblano is on the menu of the day–and with a bowl of soup, is just $55 pesos ($4.50). This beats all the other restaurants I had passed with $90-120 pesos price tags on the dish. Quickly after finishing a pleasant bowl of cream of broccoli soup, paired with a surprisingly delicous roll, I`m presented with a familiar sight–a chicken leg doused in brown sauce. I ask for tortillas—my favorite tool for eating mole–and get to work. I quickly learn that I love mole poblano even more than mole negro.

The flavors and ingredients in the sauce to seem to compete with eachother–in the healthiest, most interesting kind of way–with the heat of the chili peppers subdued by the richness of the chocolate. At this point I`m pretty much blown away as I sit, alone, in the colorfully decorated comedor. I can taste the hard work from generations of mothers and grandmothers–or cultural chemists–and their love and care for creating something so complex yet so simple is almost overwhelming. This special sauce is something which Mexicans have loved to consume for hundreds of years; often made for special events such as weddings, baptisms, birthdays and religious holidays. Something which every Mexican you meet will tell you their grandmother makes the best. I feel blessed to be experiencing it in the places where it was born. I wonder if anything even close to mole has ever or ever can be created in North America. With this, somehow my love and appreciation for food has managed to grow a little stronger. Just another moment of overwhelming love for the cultural powerhouse that is Mexico…

The divine–Mole Pablano

Four Months in Central America–The Lowdown

Feb4

Overview-

Approximate bus time- Roughly 135 hours spent riding buses, but this is the low end.
Number of beds- This is tough, lets just say a lot–I averaged a new hostel every 2 to 3 nights. I was moving around a lot. On the long end, I stayed 2 weeks in Utila, and 2 weeks in Xela…
Longest bus ride- Panama City to San Jose, Costa Rice- 16hours
Average lodging costs-$10-15 High end for Costa Rica and Belize, Average $6-7, lowest was $4 in Guatemala
Average Meal costs- $2-4, splurge meals $7-$8

San Blas sailing crew

PANAMA

September 11-12- arrived via sailboat from Colombia in Panama after spending 2 days in San Blas perfection. Spent one night and two full days exploring the lovely Panama City–all the sights in the Old City and the Panama Canal– before taking a night bus to San Jose, Costa Rica.

Sept 13 -Oct 8- Took a travel break in the US, met my niece, visited friends and family. Rested.

Highlights
I didnt spend a fair amount of time in Panama. Though I don´t know how you can beat the postcard perfect San Blas Islands.

Soaking in a volcanic spring with some Germans

Soaking in a volcanic spring near Liberia, Costa Rica with some Germans

COSTA RICA

October 9-15 – flew back into Costa Rica and after a night and day in San Jose, visiting museums and wandering around the city, I headed for the Caribbean coast and spent 4 nights in Puerto Viejo, then 2 nights in El Libertad. Hiked & Explored a volcanic national park.

Highlights
Rented a bike and rode for Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo, beach-hopped and stopped at an animal sanctuary along the way.

The Bad Part
-Costa Rica was the most expensive country I encountered in Central America–as far as the average cost per night, cost of street food, and groceries, and the cost for extra activities. Belize was a similar price range, though easier to find yummy cheap food.
-It was a putzy country to get around using the public transport–often having to return to San Jose to get to another part of the country.

Lovely sunset on Little Corn, Nicaragua

NICARAGUA
October 15-November 19
Arrived in San Juan del Sur, met fantastic people, celebrated my birthday on the beach, learned to surf, went fishing, had a generally great time. Spent some time in Granada, before swinging by the intensely relaxing and beautiful Laguna de Apoyo. A week on the magical Ometepe Island follows–biking, swimming drinking beer with a bunch of vacationing Norwegians. Back to San Juan del Sur for another fun beer and beach soaked weekend. Next was a week on the Corn Islands–Caribbean paradise: snorkeling, eating seafood and serious beach time. A week in Leon and the surrounding area for intensive Spanish lessons. Finished with a few days in the northern highlands.

Highlights
Pretty much my entire time in Nicaragua was a highlight–Learning to surf, meeting some exceptional people, swimming in the perfect Lago de Apoyo, spectacular San Juan sunsets, skinny dipping in lake Ometepe, visiting the Corn Islands, touring a cigar factory, one-on-one Spanish classes. Beautiful weather, and the best swimming stops. I love this country.

Hiking Parque Imposible

EL SALVADOR
November 20-December 6
Arrived in San Salvador for a night then headed to the beach Playa Tunco. Made my way through the Ruta de Flores for some amazing eats, then to Santa Ana for a volcano climb, down to Parque Impossible for some intense hiking, a coffee factory tour, and a visit to some natural springs; next to the more secluded Northern coast, and finally to a colonial city in the west with a great group of fellow solo travelers.

Highlights
Eating my best meal in Central America at Juayua’s impressive weekend food festival, climbing volcano Santa Ana, hiking with an ex gorilla through a former battlefield, meeting a great crew to travel with. All and all El Salvador was a surprise and a great learning experience.

Paddling on Lago de Yojoa

HONDURAS
December 6-December 30
Originally intended to skip this country, but made a fairly last minute decision to check it out. Wasn’t disappointed by my decision. First stop–Gracias, lovely old village in the highlands, then to the beautiful Lago de Yojoa, for a stay in a microbrewery in the jungle–complete with hiking, paddling and drinking above average beer; next the griddy coastal city of La Cieba, where Im “stuck” for a week, helping on a sailboat–living in a shipyard, hanging out with German Captains; ending with 2 week stint on the lovely Bay Islands for the end of the world and Christmas. Last stop Copan.

Highlights
Lago de Yojoa–paddling on the lake, hiking through the archeological park, good beer at the microbrewery. Utila–getting Open Water dive certified, meeting a great crew, and meeting up with a friend met in El Salvador.

The Bad Part
Had a rough patch when I arrived in Utila–tore up my toe pretty bad on a broken chain link fence. This made swimming painful for a few days.

Temple climbing, tomb raiding, in Tikal

GUATEMALA
December 30-January 28

Arrived in Antigua just in time for New Years celebrations–stayed in a party hostel, celebrated in the streets with fireworks and dancing. Off to the mystically beautiful Lake Atitlan–hiking and soaking in the fascinating Mayan culture. Quetzaltenango, or “Xela” is next, where I live with a local family and take private Spanish lessons. From there I make a 2 day journey solo through the highlands, past spectacular scenery, truly off the “gringo trail,” to Coban and then to Semuc Champey–where I slept in a hammock in a secluded ecolodge overlooking a vibrant green river–explored dark cave rivers by candlelight, swam in the famous green river. Final stop in the touristy little island of Flores, my jumping off point for exploring the uber impressive ancient Mayan city of Tikal.

Highlights
Semuc Champey–the cave-candle tour was a nice little adventure. Flores and Tikal turned out to be great fun.

The Bad Part
–I had trouble meeting the types of other travelers I was accustomed to meeting. Maybe it was bad luck or the fact I didn’t stick as closely to the normal tourist path, but I struggled to meet other travelers I connected with, save for a few great exceptions. Many people had different priorities and budgets than I and Most people I met were heading in the opposite direction. I spent a great deal of time traveling alone through Guatemala. This was in part due to my stubborn and cheap nature–refusing to take any of the wildly popular tourist shuttles, and only taking local “chicken” buses. It was a lonely and enlightening (and bumpy) path.

- I got miserably, painfully sick in Xela.

Cooling off in Belize

BELIZE
January 28-February 2
A visit that is short but sweet. Arrived in San Ignacio, instantly met some great people in my hostel. Spent an entire day exploring nearby Mayan ruins; spent another visiting an Iguana sanctuary, butterfly farm and cooling off in a brisk river. Headed to the coast and stayed in a teeny-tiny Garifuna village by the Carribean sea. In my short time in Belize, I was impressed by the lush green jungles, stunning coast and exceptionally friendly/helpful locals. Belize, more Caribbean than Latin, was a Perfect little “break” from typical Central America. And I never even made it to their claim to fame–the cayes.

The Bad Part
-Belize is quite a bit more expensive then the rest of Central America (on par with Costa Rica prices). And at the point in my trip where I’m running out of money, unfortunately. I would’ve loved to spend more time exploring this lovely little country. It seems like the perfect spot to spend a short vacation.

Getting attacked by baby iguanas in San Ignacio

Frustrations- The weary traveler in me, coming out…

Hippies- I´ve run into so many bloody hippies the last four months. I´m not saying all hippies are bad. I´ve just run into some of the worst–many of whom were fresh from the Rainbow Festival on their way to other hippies festivals in Central America. What this means–these are the types that get their kicks smoking way too much dope and consuming too many psychedelics, listening to bad music, having the same far-out conversations over and over again. Most of them look exactly the same–they have gross dreadlocks, or bad hair, mismatched clothes, and smell strongly of sour body odor. Sometimes I´m entertained by talking with them, most of the time I´m just irritated.

Hostels-I think as the fourth month in Central America ended, I realized I was finaly growing tired of hostels and dormitories. Tired of sharing a room with snoring, farting, loud or inconsiderate strangers. Tired of gross shared bathrooms, cramped showers and having to dig through my bag to find things. Tired of being social when I don´t want to be. I´m amazed it took me 9 months to get to this point.

Laundry- My things seem to be getting grosser faster, and Im tired of taking them to a launderer (and paying) everytime I need them clean. Tired of cleaning my underwear in the sink and having to hang them to dry…

Weather- I´m not so much bothered by the weather as I am regretting not packing my warmer jacket. Cold weather sucks when you arent dressed appropriately for it, and all the buildings are designed to be open air, with poor insolation. Also traveling when it rains–walking with all my things, through pouring rain, dodging massive puddles.

Awards-

Best Central American Capital City- Hands down Panama City

Best Beaches
Nicaragua’s Corn Islands-especially a little hidden beach we discovered on Big Corn–clean white sand, warm, calm turquoise water. No people but a few entertaining local children.

San Blas Islands–perfect little private islands with nothing but Palms.

Best Local Food
Massive grilled prawns in Las Penitas, Nicaragua. Pupusas of El Salvador. Baleadas of Honduras. Tostadas of Guatemala. Weekend food festival in Juayua, El Salvador. Iced cacao and seafood of Nicaragua.

Best Street Food
El Salvador-pretty much obsessed with pupusas. Sunday nights in Xela, Guatemala–tostadas, tacos, pupusas, donut thingys, hot fruit punch or milky corn drink.

Biggest Adventure–
Candle-cave tour in Guatemala. And– 3 days in chicken bus transit completely off the beaten path (no English spoken, no white folks, alone), through the mountainous Guatemalan highlands. Working on a sailboat in Honduras, Making it to the Corn Islands. Sailing through San Blas.

Best Value
Hostels of Guatemala, food in El Salvador, activities and equipment rental in Nicaragua. $250 open water scuba certification & accommodation.

Best Traveler Crowd
Much of Nicaragua, El Salvador and Belize; Flores, Guatemala.

Best Volcano Climb
Santa Ana in El Salvador; Santa Maria in Guatemala

Places with the most hippies
Ometepe Island, Nicaragua: Lake Atitlan, Guatemala: Hopkins, Belize

Best Snorkeling and Scuba-
Corn Islands, San Blas and Utila

Best Off the Beaten Path
The road from Huehuetenango to Coban in Guatemala. The Corn Islands. Lago de Yojoa in Honduras

Best Swimming Spot–away from the sea
Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua.

Biggest surprise
Belize–nearly skipped it. Found it to be such a lovely place. El Salvador–had no expectations, but fell in love with the country.

Best nights out
Nights out in San Juan del Sur, and in Ometepe; night out dancing at a Rancho Bar in Esteli. After Nicaragua, did not go out much, except for a great New Years Eve in Antigua, Guatemala.

Most overrated
So many people talked up San Pedro La Laguna, I had high hopes–which were shattered when I arrived. Not so special, I feel there must be better places on the lake. Antigua is a Disney version of a Guatemalan city. I wasn’t overly impressed or excited by it. So many backpackers love Playa Tunco–I thought it was filled with Canadian “bros” partying every night. Maybe I would’ve felt differently had I surfed there.

Favorite Country
Nicaragua will always hold a special place in my heart. El Salvador was all in all a super positive experience as well.

Biggest Surprise
Belize exceded my expectations. Lovely country with lovely people.

Least Favorite Country
Costa Rica, Guatemala

Low Points
Nasty toe injury in Utila; Sick, cold and alone in Guatemala. Weird, lonely Thanksgiving in Playa Tunco

Places Ill be recommending
All of Nicaragua: El Salvador, especially the Ruta de Flores and Suchitoto: Belize, because it seems like the ultimate vacation place

Lessons Learned
-Building on my first lesson–”it’s not where you are, but who you’re with,” after much time I realized, consistent alone time is downright depressing. Without quality relationships to build and nurture over time, and with no family or friends in close proximity, one becomes increasingly bitter and negative. Pretty much Everything is better when shared with others… We neeeed each other. Its cheesy but true.

-Dont always believe what others tell you, including other travelers and the general media. I ended up loving El Salvador and Honduras. Neither of these countries has a great reputation in the media. Maybe Honduras, which is home to a few of the most statistically dangerous cities in the word–Ive been to 3 of the top ten on this trip from this list– has rightfully earned that reputation. However, what must be understood about the situation in these countries is segregated to certain specific places and parts of cities, to certain gangs or people in the drug business. And with gangs–they fight other gangs. With the drug business of Latin America–you have to go digging around in the wrong parts of town, messing with wrong people, to put yourself in any real danger. The violence rarely, if ever, touches tourists.

So many people I met along the way skipped much or all of these countries, or only visited very small backpacker bubble towns, generally missing out on 99 percent of the country. You must use common sense, as is important wherever you roam.

Its a shame really, many of these places are incredible, and could use the tourism money.

Whats Next?
That massive country between the US and Central America…MEXICO!

Six Months on the Road: The Details

Nov10

I’ve done a lot of living these last 6 months. Here are the details…

The Highlights

*Overcame my fear of cockroaches while in the Amazon.
*Kayaked Las Isletas in Granada.
*Explored the massive Mercado Municipal in Massaya.
*Moonlight skinny-dipping in Ometepe.
*Watched women weave tapestries in the Sacred valley.
*Spent the day as a patient in a Colombian hospital.
*Mountain biked through scenic Colombian countryside.
*Took in views of Quito from the top of it’s Basilica
*Visited a 15th century monastery in the Mountains.
*Built and enjoyed a bonfire on a deserted island in San Blas.
*Volunteered in a barrio near Santa Marta.

*Swam in El Ojo de Agua -”The Eye of the Water.”

*Spent the day floating around a crystal clear crater lake.

*Climbed a lighthouse for 360 degree views of the Carribean sea.

*Swam with nurse sharks and eagle rays.

*Rode horseback to ancient Incan ruins.

*Rode an inter-tube down a rapid mountain river.

*Swam through a shipwreck.

*Fed Iguana’s in Guayaquil’s Iguana Park

*Admired Jade in San Jose’s Jade Museum

*Admired Gold in Cartagena’s Museo del Oro

*Ate birthday cake on the beach.

*Prepared a meal from scratch with native women in the jungle.

*Worked in a party hostel on Colombia’s Carribean coast.

*Planted yucca in the Amazon

*Watched flamingos in the Guajira.

*Enjoyed a massage on the beach.

*Felt a seismic tremoron Ometepe .

*Watched the Olympics with people from around the globe.

*Bathed in a mud volcano.

*Watched the condors soar in Colca Canon.

*Walked to Machu Picchu.

*Went on a backpacker date on Big Corn

*Hugged a sloth.

*Got a tarantula facial.

*Slept on a hammock overlooking the Northernmost tip of South America.

*Toured a Colombian Coffee Plantation.

*Jumped off a bridge in Banos.

*Repelled waterfalls.

*Ate ants in the Amazon; Ate RonDon and Pan de Coco in the Corn Islands; Alpaca in Arequipa; Arepas in Colombia; Lobster in the Guajira; Ceviche on the beach.

*Hiked to hidden waterfalls–on several occasions.

*Laid below giant wax palms.

*Whitewater rafting down class 4 rapids

*Drank Pisco Sours by the sea in Lima.

*Sandboarded down the world’s largest dune.

*Danced to live reggae in a street party.

*Drank Aguardiente with Colombians; Drank wine with Peruvians; Drank Mojitos with Ecuadorians.

*Sailed from Colombia to Panama.

*Visited a Colombian whorehouse.

*Watched the Panama Canal in action.

*Went clubbing at Colombia’s hottest spot.

*Biked from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo, beach-hopping along the way.

*Hiked to volcanic hot springs.

*Walked an ancient path between tiny historic villages.

*Got an unofficial tour of Colombian political buildings from a local crazy man.

*Got Montezuma’s revenge and altitude sickness all at once in Cuzco.

*Danced the day away in a “day club” in Arequipa

*Went bird watching on a river in Ecuador

*Witnessed an Inka ceremony near Nazca.

*Learned to surf in San Juan del Sur.

*Went fishing in the sea.

*Watched the sunset from the top of Cartagena’s fortified wall.

*Played with monkeys.

*Biked the horrific roads of Isla de Ometepe.

*Spent countless hours swimming in the ocean.

*Rode on a 12-passenger plane over Nicaragua.

*Camped on the beach in Tyrona National Park.

*Rode on a speed boat through a storm at sea.

*Made friends from around the globe.

Watching the condors soar in Colca Canon

Carribean rondon cookout

Touring Colombia’s capital city

Exploring Panama City with friends from Holland, Hungary and Korea

Bike/beach hopping Costa Rica’s carribean coast

Scariest Moments:

*A very wild ride on the back of a Motto-taxi from a Santa Marta Barrio.

*A terrifying speed boat ride through a storm from Big Corn to Little Corn.

*Bridge jumping in Banos.

*Hospital visit in Colombia.

*Night bus through the Peruvian Andes.

Toughest Moments:

*Missing the birth of my niece.

*Getting Bronchitis in Colombia.

I learned:

*To surf

*To sail

*To be alone

*To play countless card games

*To make chocolate from scratch

*To shoot a blow gun

*To shoot a harpoon gun

*To man a bar/restock a cooler

*To live on little

*To enjoy a sunset

*To dance Salsa

*To relax and enjoy the moment

*To pan for gold

*To love rice and beans

*To use a Spanish keyboard

*To sleep in a hammock

*To navigate, bargain, small talk, survive on my own–in Spanish!

Time breakdown:

Peru: 3-4 weeks

Ecuador: 3 weeks

Colombia: 12 weeks

Panama: about 4 days

Costa Rica: 8 days
USA: 3 weeks

Nicaragua: 21 days –and counting

I consumed way too much:

Ice cream; fruit, fruit juice, and smoothies; beer; granola; rice and beans. And still love them all…

6 border crossings, 6 countries, 7 flights, 4 night buses of 12 hours or more

Sitting next to the pilots on the way back from Little Corn

Rode on:

Luxury Bus, chicken bus, plane, puddle jumper, speed boat, panga, river taxi, ferry, train, moto-taxi, motorcycle taxi, tuk-tuk, horse, truck, bike, kayak, taxi, metro rail, cable car, colectivo, sandboard, intertube, raft, sailboat, 4X4, cycle rickshaw.

Averaged a new bed every 3-4 night, with 5 weeks being the longest spent in one spot.

One of many waterfalls I’ve hiked to

What’s up for the next 6?
*Periodic stops for spanish classes.
*Volunteer stop.
*If anywhere in El Salvador–maybe the Ruta de Las Flores, as it should be in bloom this time of year.
*I have ambition to embark on the 6 day trek from Nebaj – Todos Santos in Guatemala.
*Quite enthused about reaching Guatemala, in general–Lake Atitan, Mayan Ruins, Rio Dulce, Semuc Champey…I’ve met plenty of travelers heading south with lots of nice things to say about this country.
*Cenotes, ruins, food and beaches of Mexico.
*Quick snorkel stop in Belize
*Leaving my options much more open these next 6 months.

Happy Birthday to a few of my favorites

Nov5

November 5– a very special day which welcomed to this world such great human beings as:

Shelley– My conjoined twin: I’m so excited for the day we can once again share a city. Now get out there and have two glasses of wine – one for you and one for me– you have my permission to talk for me in my absence.

Lindsay–My favorite roommate and blond: I feel so blessed to have spent a couple months bonding over coffee and Good Morning America. I’ll always cherish those memories. Hope your day is extra special!

Grandpa–My brillo-haired role model: I have the deepest appreciation and gratitude for your support and for being so lucky to call you my Grandpa. Hope this year is even better than last!

Happy Birthday! Sending my love from Little Corn Island …

Why travel?

Sep28

A few of my favorite quotes on travel mixed with a few of my favorite travel moments from my first four and a half months on the road…

This was way less scary than you might think- in the Amazon

“I can’t think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything. Suddenly you are five years old again. You can’t read anything, you have only the most rudimentary sense of how things work, you can’t even reliably cross a street without endangering your life. Your whole existence becomes a series of interesting guesses.” – Bill Bryson

jumping near Barichara, Colombia

“I beg young people to travel. If you don’t have a passport, get one. Take a summer, get a backpack and go to Delhi, go to Saigon, go to Bangkok, go to Kenya. Have your mind blown. Eat interesting food. Dig some interesting people. Have an adventure. Be careful. Come back and you’re going to see your country differently, you’re going to see your president differently, no matter who it is. Music, culture, food, water. Your showers will become shorter. You’re going to get a sense of what globalization looks like. It’s not what Tom Friedman writes about; I’m sorry. You’re going to see that global climate change is very real. And that for some people, their day consists of walking 12 miles for four buckets of water. And so there are lessons that you can’t get out of a book that are waiting for you at the other end of that flight. A lot of people—Americans and Europeans—come back and go, Ohhhhh. And the light bulb goes on.”
–Henry Rollins, “Punk Rock World Traveler,” World Hum, November 2, 2011

bridge jumping in Banos, Ecuador

“A man of ordinary talent will always be ordinary, whether he travels or not; but a man of superior talent will go to pieces if he remains forever in the same place.”
— Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

Sandboarding down Cerro Blanco

A person needs at intervals to separate from family and companions and go to new places. One must go without familiars in order to be open to influences, to change. ~ Katharine Butler Hathaway

My last night out in Santa Marta, Colombia

“Without new experiences, something inside of us sleeps. The sleeper must awaken.”
– Frank Herbert

In the Amazon

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.”
— Aldous Huxley

Valle de Coccora, Colombia

“Travel makes one modest, you see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.”
— Gustave Flaubert

Bathing in mud, outside Cartagena, Colombia

One hour of life, crowded to the full with glorious action and filled with noble risks, is worth whole years of those mean observances of paltry decorum.
– Sir Walter Scott

Getting ready to rappel waterfalls in Banos, Ecuador

“Have you ever wanted to be in a movie? Well, traveling full time is the closest thing you can get to being in one. Magical memories will be the norm and you will yearn to relive them the rest of your days. There are thousands of people out there right now; we all have your back. Just do it.”
- Scott Hartbeck, The Shirt Off My Backpack

Inca festival outside Nazca, Peru

“Do me a favor… Stand up, walk to wherever the nearest window is, and just look outside. You may not know this, but there’s an entire planets-worth of summers, friends, sunsets, street lamps, songs, late nights, great films, and night skies waiting for you. Your life is as amazing as you want it to be, but first, you have to let it be that way.”
– Chad Sugg

In travel, as in writing, the illusion of a direction is what allows you in fact most comfortably to wander off-course.
-pico iyer

Sailing through San Blas

Why Travel:

Because when you leave behind the familiar, you can’t help but be changed by the foreign.
Because comfort zones become constricting zones over time.
Because the world was meant to be experienced, not imagined.
Because you’ll meet people who are different than you. (Are we all the same? Not really, but that’s OK.)
Because it will frustrate and annoy you at times, and you’ll be better because of it.
Because you are afraid, and it’s always good to make peace with your fears.”– Chris Guillebeau, The Art of Non-Conformity

The Weird and Wonderful Cheesedays

Sep23

Cheesedays, a set on Flickr.

Comes once every two years because that’s all we can handle.

Someplace special in Colombia

Jun28

Gates leading into a little slice of heaven

First you catch a bus to Armenia, then one to Salento, and when you arrive in the main square, you hire a jeep and tell him to take you to La Serrana Eco Farm and Hostel.

As the jeep rolls down the long, dusty gravel driveway, you’ll find yourself on a cozy finca overlooking panoramic views of rolling farmland, grazing animals, and impossibly green mountains. Hydrangeas grow along rocky pathways. A hammock–just asking for a weary traveller and good book–sways in the breeze.

Friendly dogs greet you as you make your way into an airy ranch. This ranch feels like your childhood best friends house–the one in the country. The one where you had all the room in the world to run and play.

Inside, a vase of tropical flowers sits on a large inviting table, an open kitchen contains Dutch girls making hot chocolate and popcorn, couches filled with Germans, Israelis, and Aussies gaze at a TV–which plays a classic American comedy. One guy plays guitar on the patio while another drinks fresh coffee.

Raw milk and homemade yogurt fresh made from the happy grazing cows nearby, large rich brownies, and homemade peaunut butter are available at cost if or when they are desired. A popcorn maker sits in the corner waiting for a case of the munchies.

Guest kitchen and dining area

Living room

Lawn

And just when you think things can’t be more perfect, the sky paints a rainbow. Travelers head to the hillside to gaze at it.

At seven, the dinner bell rings and all head to the kitchen. This is an open tiled room with windows for walls, wine bottles adorning the ceilings and friendly Colombian women busy with the finishing touches on tonights meal–family style burritos–homemade tortillas, guacamole and salsa, steak, chicken, veggies, beans and rice: ingrediants of which were born on or near the farm.

We gather at long candlelit wooden tables to share our home-cooked meal; drink wine and discuss where we’ve come from; where we are going. This dinner continues for hours, until we head to back to the house.

Some play the guitar and sing, others practice their Spanish, the rest pop in another movie. The mood is chill, and as we sit on cush leather couches-the tv screen gently flickering- it feels as if we are cozy at home. And for some- after months, even years on the road–and many more ahead–thats a feeling worth far more than the $10/night price tag.

Falling in Love with Arequipa

May27

We currently find ourselves in the lovely southern city of Arequipa. Though I was enchanted by Cusco, it’s brisk nights and cloudy days were starting to get to us. So we did as we’ve done before and hopped on a night bus- to wake up in a new city.

It was clear on our first day in Arequipa, that this was a special place…The cloudless skies & sunshine, outstanding cuisine and amazing Spanish colonial architecture. With a central plaza that has to be one of the most beautiful in all of Peru; exotically trimmed trees, flowers, palm trees, stone fountains and flocks of overly friendly pigeons giving free aviation shows. Benches filled with happy families; peaceful political protesters, tourists with cameras, ice cream cart venders. Snow-capped mountains and volcanos overlook the city.

It’s all very charming, really.

Anna and I have spent the last two days aimlessly wandering the city- learning the streets, exploring it’s nooks and crannies; eating street food (the skewer lady by the Cathedral is best) eating at Sangucheria’s (the amazing sandwich and smoothie cafes), eating the ice creams and desserts the city is rightfully known for; basically just eating in general; spotting plazas, parks, vibrant markets, ancient cathedrals.

The definition of pleasant.

Our first night in Arequipa, we suffered from exhaustion and confusion as a result of a long overnight bus ride, and succumb to our weakness when we take a hostel recommendation from our taxi driver (note: don’t do it). We book the night at a musty, dilapidated hospedaje. Dingy, dungeon like rooms, mold, century-old sheets, damp bathrooms- the faint sound of a baby crying, and a doorbell from hell (literally went on for a full minute anytime anyone rang it). But we all got our own private rooms and bathroom; for around $7. Anna ends up sharing my room. This place was far too depressing to sleep alone.

We move to the Point Hostel early the next day. A breath of fresh air; a five star hotel compared to our previous night; open aired, spanish tiles, sunshine streaming down on vibrant blue walls, a large friendly lounge area filled with friendly travelers from around the world; a bar and WIFI.

We get the small rooftop dormitory; with access to the glorious rooftop patio. We are pampered by the clean bathrooms with hot water. This is more like it.

On our second day we wander some more. This is a city meant to be explored by foot. We indulge in more sandwiches from heaven, and ridiculously large waffle bowls of gelato ($2.50 US!).

In the afternoon we decide to join others from our hostel and head to a dance club on the outskirts of town. This place turns out to be surreal- 3 pm in the afternoon and its packed to the brink with Peruvians drinking large plastic cups of beer, dancing to Muscia Latina… there are performers on stage rousing the club patrons- 4 or 5 men dancing to the music- reminiscent of Chip N Dale dancers- Peruvian women screeching at them. There are women dressed as nurses giving out “shots” and there is a man in a crazy costume and wig with a ghostbuster-like gun shooting liquid into clubbers mouths. This is a bizarre place; but we dance away the rest of the afternoon. A Peruvian club is like a Zumba class with Cynthia- Anna and I know every other song played.

We get home just after 6 pm grab phenomenal pizza from a cafe near our hostel, hang out in the hostel lounge for a few hours; and decide to call it an early night.

On this day- we haven’t quite decided how we’ll spend it. I currently sit on the roof top with my iPod and bluetooth keyboard; with the hot sun and the sounds of the city. We have a long night bus to Lima departing late tomorrow evening (and a flight to Ecuador on Wednesday), so we’ve decided to do a full day tour to Colca Canon (one of the worlds largest canons, famous for its condors and breathtaking landscape) tomorrow. It’s a 3 AM departure; so we may go white water rafting this afternoon, or eehh, we may spend another day eating and wandering. Since Anna is napping, I may also take a nap in the sunny hammock?

Just some of the tough decisions we are currently faced with…>